Dmitry Golovczenko - Festiwal Górski 2020 w Lądku-Zdroju
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The 25th edition of the Festival will be longer than usual. Get ready for 10 days, 11th – 20th of September 2020!

Dmitry Golovczenko

One of the best Russian mountaineers of the young generation. Together with his teammate Sergey Nilov he is a double laureate (and the youngest Russian) of the Pilot d’Or award – alpine Oscar and 4 times laureate of Russian Golden Axe award. The author of the first accents in Tian-Shan, Karakorum, Himalaya. Among others: new route at 2,3 km wall of Muztagh Tower (Karakorum, Pakistan) or “Moveable Feast” on 1.5 km North Face of Thalay Sagar in Garhwal Himalaya, India. He specialised in winter expeditions. In Caucasus during winter ascent of North peak of famous Ushba mountain, the temperatures fell below – 40.  In March/ April  2019   with Sergey he climbed in alpine style the east face of Jannu (7710m) and reached  the south ridge of the wall at the altitude of 7412m.  The route they had pioneered up the east face— named  Unfinished Sympathy— was too dicy to descend, and instead they had to find their way down the southwest side of the mountain. The team spent on the mountain 18 days. Their expedition was part of the film «The Wall of Shadows» directed by Eliza Kubarska.  Dmitry has a wife and 9-years-old daughter.

Dmitry’s notable ascents:

2008 – 2nd ascend on peak Kirpich (Russian 6A grade), Caucasus, Russia 2009 – new route on peak Vernyi (Russian 6A grade), Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzstan – Russian Golden Axe nomination 2011 – new route on Trango Nameless Tower “No Fear” (Russian 6B grade), Karakorum, Pakistan – Russian Golden Axe nomination 2012 – new route on Muztagh Tower “Think Twice” (Russian 6B grade), Karakorum, Pakistan – Russian Golden Axe winner, Piolet d’Or 2013 winner 2014 – new route on Kyzyl-Asker “War and Peace” (Russian 6B grade), Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzstan – Russian Golden Axe nomination 2015 – first ascend on Sedoy Strazh “9th wall” (Russian 6B grade), Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzstan – Russian Golden Axe winner 2016 – new route on Thalay Sagar “Moveable Feast” (Russian 6B grade), Garhwal Himalaya, India – Russian Golden Axe winner, Piolet d’Or 2017 winner 2017 – new route on peak Asgard “Ratatoskr” (Russian 6B grade), Baffin Mountains, Canada – Russian Golden Axe winner

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